Portuguese Egg Tarts: How a British Baker Sparked a Portuguese Pastry Craze in Hong Kong

Egg tarts are a type of Western pastry filled with a sweet egg custard. The word “tart” generally refers to a baked pastry shell filled with sweet or savory ingredients, and the egg tart has become one of the most popular variations across many parts of Asia.

In Hong Kong, egg tarts have long been a beloved part of local food culture. With a crisp pastry shell surrounding a soft, sweet egg custard, they are commonly enjoyed for breakfast, afternoon tea, or as an everyday snack. Although egg tarts are now extremely popular in Hong Kong, mainland China, and many other parts of Asia, their widespread popularity in Hong Kong is relatively recent.

There are several theories about the origins of the Hong Kong egg tart. Some suggest that it can be traced back to Guangzhou in the 1920s, while others believe that egg tarts became established in Hong Kong around the 1940s. There are even claims that similar pastries existed in China as early as the 17th century. However, the exact historical development remains debated, making it difficult to identify a single origin for the modern egg tart.

Portuguese-style egg tarts have a distinctive appearance and flavor compared with traditional Hong Kong egg tarts. Although the two pastries may look similar at first glance, there are noticeable differences in their fillings and preparation methods.

Portuguese-style egg tart fillings typically contain eggs, cream, milk, and sugar, while traditional Hong Kong egg tart fillings are generally simpler and are often made primarily from eggs and sugar syrup. Because Portuguese-style egg tarts contain dairy ingredients and are baked at relatively high temperatures, their surfaces develop characteristic golden-brown or dark caramelized spots. These slightly charred patches are among the most recognizable features of Portuguese-style egg tarts.

The early history of egg custard pastries is also surrounded by different theories. Food historian Laura Mason noted in Traditional Foods of Britain that pastries containing dairy products, sugar, eggs, and spices existed in medieval Britain. However, because eggs, milk, and sugar have long been common ingredients in European desserts, the existence of similar pastries does not necessarily establish a direct origin for the modern egg tart.

Another widely known story is connected to the Belém district of Lisbon, Portugal. By the 18th and early 19th centuries, local monasteries were associated with the production of pastries featuring flaky shells and rich egg-based custard fillings. During the 19th century, these pastries entered commercial production and developed into what is now widely known as pastéis de nata. The famous version produced in Belém later became known as Pastéis de Belém and remains one of Portugal’s most recognizable traditional pastries.

The Portuguese-style egg tart familiar to many Asian consumers today, particularly the version associated with Macau, is somewhat different from the traditional Portuguese pastry. Its development is closely linked to British baker Andrew Stow.

After encountering traditional pastéis de nata in Portugal, Stow was inspired to create his own interpretation. He adapted elements of the Portuguese pastry while incorporating techniques and ideas associated with British baking. In 1989, he opened Lord Stow’s Bakery in Coloane, Macau, where he began selling what would become known as the Macau-style Portuguese egg tart.

His version featured a flaky, layered pastry shell, a rich and creamy custard center, and a caramelized surface created by high-temperature baking. The combination quickly attracted local customers and visitors. As Macau developed into a major tourist destination, Portuguese-style egg tarts became one of the city’s most recognizable culinary specialties.

The growing popularity of Portuguese-style egg tarts in Macau and elsewhere in Asia was also connected with Margaret Wong, Andrew Stow’s former wife. After the couple separated, Margaret established her own egg tart business in Macau under her name. As these bakeries gained recognition, Macau-style Portuguese egg tarts became increasingly familiar to consumers throughout the region.

Over time, Portuguese-style egg tarts spread from Macau to Hong Kong, Taiwan, and other parts of Asia. Their flaky pastry layers, creamy custard filling, and distinctive caramelized surface clearly distinguished them from traditional Hong Kong-style egg tarts and helped establish a unique identity of their own.

Making a good Portuguese-style egg tart requires careful attention to the pastry, custard, and baking temperature. The pastry should develop clearly defined, crisp layers that expand quickly under intense heat. Meanwhile, the custard should remain smooth and delicate while delivering a rich combination of egg and dairy flavors. During baking, browning reactions on the surface create the characteristic dark spots and contribute subtle caramelized flavors.

Portuguese-style egg tarts are especially appealing when served fresh from the oven. The outer pastry is light and crisp, revealing distinct flaky layers with every bite, while the custard inside remains soft, creamy, and aromatic. The contrast between the crisp pastry, silky filling, and slightly caramelized surface gives this seemingly simple dessert a surprisingly complex and balanced texture.

From traditional Portuguese pastéis de nata to Andrew Stow’s Macau interpretation and its subsequent popularity throughout Hong Kong and other parts of Asia, the Portuguese-style egg tart has undergone a fascinating journey across cultures. It preserves elements of Portuguese pastry tradition while incorporating influences from different baking cultures, ultimately becoming a beloved dessert enjoyed far beyond its original European roots.