Braised Oxtail in Milanese Style: A Perfect Interpretation of Tradition and Substitution

When I set out to write this recipe, I hesitated over whether to use the term “Italian Milanese-style braise,” because the most classic version—Ossobucco alla Milanese—is made with veal shank, not oxtail.

The name Ossobucco comes from Italian: osso (bone) and bucco (hole), referring to a cross‑cut veal shank with marrow and tendon. The dish originates from Milan, hence “alla Milanese.”

Because the shank contains rich tendon, the cooking principle is similar to that of beef shin in Chinese cuisine—long, slow simmering transforms the connective tissue into a soft, gelatinous texture, making the meat tender and succulent.

Authentic ossobucco calls for veal shank (preferably from young calves), otherwise the shank is too large and may turn out tough after prolonged cooking. However, in China, this cut is usually deboned and sold as beef shin, which is more commercially viable. Thus, finding a proper veal shank—especially from a young calf—is extremely difficult, whether online or in physical stores.

For this reason, I use oxtail as a substitute. Oxtail is also ideal for slow cooking—it has bone, firm meat that doesn’t fall apart, and plenty of sinew. The only drawback is that it lacks the marrow of the shank, but it’s the best compromise under the circumstances.

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Recipe for Braised Oxtail in Milanese Style

This braise belongs to the culinary tradition of northern Italy—an old and classic dish, as widespread as ragù, and a true Italian “mamma” recipe. Every family has its own variation, so there is no single “correct” version, but the overall seasoning approach remains fairly consistent.

Choosing the Oxtail

For this stew, I recommend quality grass‑fed oxtail. Compared to grain‑fed cattle raised in feedlots, grass‑fed animals are pasture‑raised and constantly move to graze, which develops longer muscle fibres, more connective tissue, and stronger fasciae. As a result, the meat holds its shape better after long cooking and delivers a deeper, beefier flavour.

That said, some grass‑fed beef may come from cattle treated with hormones or antibiotics, so please check the label. High‑quality, hormone‑free grass‑fed Angus beef can be just as expensive as its grain‑fed counterparts.
(I used New Zealand Silver Fern Farms grass‑fed beef for this recipe.)

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Ingredients

For the braise

• Oxtail – 1000 g

• Carrot – 30 g

• Celery – 35 g

• Onion – 200 g

• Garlic (minced) – 10 g

• Olive oil – 15 g

• Butter – 75 g

• White wine – 220 g

• Bay leaves – 3 g

• Canned tomatoes (puréed) – 66 g

• Veal stock (or water) – 800 g

• Cornstarch – as needed

For the gremolata‑style garnish

• Lemon – 1

• Orange – 1

• Garlic cloves – 2

• Parsley (fresh or dried) – a handful, chopped

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Step‑by‑Step Instructions

1. Prepare the vegetables
   Peel and wash the carrot, celery, and onion. Dice them into 0.5‑cm cubes. Mince the 10 g of garlic. Keep the carrot separate; the rest can be mixed together.

2. Prep the oxtail
   Rinse and pat the oxtail dry. Dust with cornstarch and shake off any excess.

3. Sear the oxtail
   Heat a Dutch oven (enamelled cast‑iron pot) over medium heat and add some olive oil. The pot needs 5–10 minutes to heat up properly—you can judge by the aroma of the oil or by inserting a chopstick. Place the oxtail pieces in the pot and sear until browned on both sides. If the oil runs low, gradually add the butter (total 75 g). Once seared, remove the oxtail and set aside.

4. Sauté the aromatics
   Add any remaining butter to the pot, then cook the carrot cubes until soft. Add the celery, onion, and minced garlic and sauté until fragrant.

5. Deglaze with wine
   Pour in the white wine and cook until almost dry.

6. Add tomatoes and herbs
   Stir in the bay leaves and the puréed canned tomatoes.

7. Return the meat and add liquid
   Put the seared oxtail back into the pot and add the veal stock (or water). Cover, reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting, and simmer for 1.5 hours.

   💡 A heat diffuser is helpful to prevent scorching. After about 1 hour, check the pot: if the liquid is still abundant, continue simmering; if it has reduced to a thick sauce, stir frequently to avoid sticking to the bottom.

8. Oven alternative
   If you cannot watch the pot constantly, you can place the covered Dutch oven in a preheated oven at 150°C and let it roast for 2+ hours—the result is equally good.

9. Make the garnish
   Using a zester, grate the zest of the orange and lemon. Mince the 2 garlic cloves and mix with the chopped parsley. Set aside.

10. Serve
    Remove the pot from heat, sprinkle the gremolata mixture over the oxtail, and serve immediately.

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Texture and Flavour

After long simmering in the Dutch oven, the meat fibres become extremely tender, so tearing the meat apart is effortless. The cornstarch coating on the oxtail, combined with the pot’s excellent moisture retention and starch gelatinisation, results in a naturally thick sauce (similar to Chinese “velveting”) that clings beautifully to the meat, imparting a rich, full‑bodied, and velvety mouthfeel.

In terms of flavour, the first impression is a bright citrus aroma with a subtle garlicky kick. As you chew, the sauce reveals layers of tomato tang, wine depth, savoury vegetable and stock notes, and finally the natural sweetness and robust beefiness of the grass‑fed oxtail.

If you enjoy Italian dishes with intense, tomato‑based sauces, this braised oxtail is sure to delight. 🍷